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travelingadiva: (Default)
Sunday, February 5th, 2012 06:44 pm
Yesterday, Brittany bought an oven. Her apartment didn't come with one; the Chinese don't really bake. At all. And when you're living on your own in China, epecially as a vegetarian, meals can get pretty monotonous when you only have an electric stove and a microwave. So. Oven.

A toaster oven, to be more precise, which is the Chinese idea of an oven. That was fine for her though; small, so we could transport it and it would fit easily, and it's not like she was cooking ginormous things. We found one that was a decent size and at a pretty good price (on sale at 85% of the original price, even) and yup. Bought the oven. Sorta.

What we really did was we talked to (she talked to) the woman manning the little area the ovens were, who wrote down a lot of things and handed Brittany several pieces of paper, with the instructions to go to the 'cash counter' of the store. Papers in hand, we walk over to the cash counter, where Brittany pays for the oven and is handed some more reciepts. These, we are told to take back to the oven-area. We do. Another woman takes some the the reciepts, stamps them, gives us some more back, and tells us to go to another counter.

Over to the Information Counter we go. We hand them some of the reciepts and are given yet another handful of papers. Which we then take back to the oven-area, hand them to the woman, who then tells us to wait for a minute while they bring out the oven.

Now. I understand keeping stock in the back, but why does their system require five different visits to three different counters to purchase an oven. How does that make an efficient sense at all. Brittany supposed that it was a job creation type thing. I think it's more just that they have so many people, they need to keep them all moving from place to place so there's less of a pile up.

After we dropped the oven off at the apartment, we headed right back out again, intending to visit the Nanning night market and Snack Street. A long and slightly worrying bus ride later, we found the night market. Basically it was several alleyways/streets that got completely taken over by vendors (mostly clothing) and everyone in the vicinity squished into the tiny space to buy things. Very Chinese, in that the night market is obviously for the people who live in the country, not random foreigners thinking it might be interesting.

And it was interesting, don't get me wrong, but. There is this thing I've been noticing about China. Conformity? Covers everything. So the vendors? Pretty much all sold exactly the same stuff. You'd walk from one stall to the other and it was all almost the exact same thing. No variety at all. And this is everywhere. Honestly, it makes shopping (and gift getting) kind of difficult; if you don't like what one place has to offer...chances are you're not going to find much else anywhere else. We did come across a lot of terrible, terrible Chinglish on clothes, which were fun to read while the vendors looked on bewildered at our laughter.

I even bought a sweater. Brittany was the one who pointed it out to me. It says, "More Respect, Less Attack" in big letters on the front, and some giberish in cursive underneath, the material was nice enough, and it was being sold as an extra-large men's sweater, which meant there was a chance it'd actually fit my shoulders. The seller wanted 68RMB, which, no, and I haggled it down to 38RMB (about $6), a price I was okay with paying. After being able to look at it in the light, it was almost funny; the thing is very, very obviously handmade, from the seamwork. The thread is two colors (yellow, sometimes mixing into pink), and loose enough that I was afraid to pick at it much, for fear that it would just come apart. However, it's an easy enough fix; once I'm home I can go over all the seams with a simple straight stitch and that added precaution should keep things together.

Snack Street was a few blocks away from the night market, and that was an experience all it's own. If you'll turn your attention to the items behind the cut... )

So I experienced both a Chinese night market and a snack street. Haggled for a sweater, saw many things I would probably hesistate eating, tried some fresh juice drinks, and discovered an allergy to Durian. All in a day's night, in China.
travelingadiva: (Default)
Friday, January 27th, 2012 08:10 am
Yesterday was an up-early-and-go-do-things before jumping on a sleeper train. Nine hours and very little sleep later, we arrived in Xian and, subsequently, our hostel, at about 8am. Dropped our things and proceeded to go right back out again. Why?

Well, we're only in Xian for a day, and this happens to be the home of the Terracotta Soldiers.

After a minor incident figuring out how the heck to pay for a ticket get on the bus to that area (answer: get on bus, sit down, pay person as she comes down the aisle), we were on our way and, about an hour later, there we were.

The ticket office.

Bought the tickets, and then started the long, long trek up many slopes and steps and paths to the pits and museums. Later on we figured that the reason the entrance is so far away from the actual area is because, since they have no idea how much more is buried, they're hedging their bets.

The soldiers were...indescribable, really. The details, the intricacies, the differences--it's true that these really were of people. The faces were different from statue to statue, the clothing varied, the types of people varied; heights, sloping shoulders, bowed knees--all of that. It was crazy. I took...many, many pictures, thought none of them really do any justice to seeing it it person. People made these things. Thousands of them. And though we've found an army, a few stables, and a bird menagerie, we didn't find other things that an emperor would most certainly have, such as harem quarters, eating areas, larger menageries, and libraries. This man had his entire kingdom recreated in a tomb below ground. If he went so far as to have his stable boys (and it was clear from those statues' heights and faces that they were children) recreated, he definitely would have done the rest of his kingdom. Chances are that there are hundreds or thousands of pieces we haven't even found yet. Forget chance--it's assured; the site was only discovered in 1974. They've only been excavating for a few decades. Parts of Pit No. 1 (the biggest one, with the over 6,000 soldiers in it) were curtained off because they're in the middle of working through it. That's incredible.

The emperor was totally looney tunes, by the way.

Anyway, yes. Pictures to come soon.

After arriving back at the first bus stop, we decided to walk around, since we'd hoped to get to this antique market that is supposed to be in a particular area. After a while of walking around and not finding anything though, we just started back to the hostel instead.

On the way, we noticed a bunch of food vendors all around this one particular ally and decided to take a look. Turns out that alley was one of the places for Xian's new year celebration. Lots of vendors (food and otherwise), music, even a Hindu prayer area. I had been wanting a calculator, so after some looking around, we ducked into a vendor's booth that sold things like office supplies and the like.

Ended up finding two calculators, both small (pocket-size; the one I'd brought with me that broke was a keychain, but pocket size wasn't to big to travel with). The one I liked and decided I wanted to get had a fold-over cover, so it was a bit less likely to get battered so quickly. When we asked how much it was though, the woman at the shop said 45RMB.

Pft, no, that's. No. So I shook my head and started to walk away, and she dashes after us waving her calculator, telling me to make an offer. A-hah! The haggling has begun. Now, I have no idea how much this sort of calculator would go for in China, and neither did Brittany. I mean, I could pick up a regular-ish one at a dollar store, but this did fold over and was nicer? Still, 45RMB was way, way too much. So I offered 8. She offered 40. I offered 12. 38 from her, 18 from me, 33 from her, 20 from me, she makes the "oish what are you doing to me" face and calls over to her boss to make her next offer (a signal you're getting a good deal, when they have to ask their 'supervisor' for permission to go lower), which is 30. I offer 25, she has another word with her boss and ends at 26. That's good enough for me. Pay her the 26RMB and get a smile and a thumbs up from her, which was amusing. I think that maybe they aren't really used to Westerners actually haggling with them, at least not to driving real bargains? And yeah, even with the conversion I probably would have paid less for it in the US, but I had a lot of fun with it, which made the experience (and the calculator) worth it for me.

And I saved 19RMB (which I later spent on a delicious drink), so. Good fun all around. I'm really pleased with the experience. It's cool to think back on. And yay haggling! Getting the hang of it, I am. I think. I hope?

In another booth, Brittany found a mahjong set that she really liked, and got it. She asked for a break too, and paid 90RMB from 98RMB. Considering she was willing to pay the 98RMB from the start...heh. Not bad. So we each ended the day with something cool, that we enjoyed. I think it's experiences like this, places and meetings like this, that make people say that they love China and Chinese culture. I can see why people love the country and culture, if this is all of what they know about it. It isn't what most of modern day China is, however, and I don't think that without either living here or being here for a long enough time to really see the behind what-China-makes-sure-people-see, one can really understand that.

Anyway, back to the day, we went back to the hostel and got delicious veggie burgers for dinner, and had hot expensive coffee drinks while I typed this up and Brittany taught me to play Mahjong. And so was our time in Xian. We catch a plane for Nanning at 12:30pm tomorrow, so we won't have a lot more time here, but for experiencing a city, this was a good way to do it. Not bad, not bad at all.

Edit: After a little more thought, and attempting to look stuff up(, and the use of my new calculator!) I realized that I essentially bargained the saleslady from $7-and-change to $4.15. And that this is a pretty nice calculator; clamshell style, both solar-power and battery options, came with a case...it's definitely not a dollar-store calculator. I made a good deal!
travelingadiva: (Default)
Friday, January 27th, 2012 07:05 am
January 25, 2012
Beijing Downtown Backpackers Hostel, Beijing (big surprise)

Today was a good day. Mostly in terms of buying lots of things. You know that satisfaction you get after you ponder over something for a long while, and then finally buy it and love it forever? That feeling, quite a lot of it.

Of course, that all happened much, much later in the day. The morning was spent wandering around Ditan Park in the downtown Beijing area. Ditan Park is a huge, huge New Year’s festival thing. And it was, essentially, a street fair. Loads of vendors selling more or less the same five things (plastic weapons, hats and ears, apples on sticks, whirlimajig thingies, and various other trinket things that I don’t understand why people buy them), carnival games with big stuffed animal prizes and few wins, and food vendors.

The food vendors were interesting. Lots and lots of food on sticks. By ‘food’ I pretty much mean ‘meat.’ Pork, beef, chicken, fish, squid, other things with tentacles, other stuff that we weren’t sure how to identify…very interesting. I also learned that I am not a fan of the smell of stinky tofu, and that the food most definitely deserves it’s name. No joke, this was the conversation that happened:

Brittany: I really don’t understand why people eat stinky tofu.
Me: That’s what that smell is? I thought it was a horse.

We bought a…drink while there as well. A, uh, thing. Fruit or vegetable thing. That the vendor punched a hole in, stuck in a straw, and handed to us. We still can’t figure out just what it was. Pictures (and hopefully video) to come.

After our fingers froze and we subsequently noticed we’d been walking around for three hours, we stopped for a quick bite and then headed back to the hostel to regroup before going out for an actual late-lunch-meal.

It was walking around after lunch that the magic really started. We stopped in this Tibet-Buddhist-Hindu themed shop and after some looking around, I found an item I really liked that I thought would make a great present for my parents. The woman who worked in the shop came up to us and showed us how to use the thing properly and…I really, really liked it. It was a good quality piece, obviously handcrafted, and yeah, just. Wanted. Knew it would be a perfect gift too. It was fairly expensive though (260RMB), so I spent a while deliberating.

The woman came up to us again and saw me just not wanting to let go of the thing and turned it over to show the price. We nodded, because yeah, we’d seen it, but then she shook her head. “No, no,” and took out her calculator (a lot of shopkeepers communicate price with them) and put down 180RMB. I hadn’t even planned to haggle (it’s common-to-expected, but I don’t know, I felt sort of weird, in this case). Then she hands me the calculator, very clearly telling me to make an offer. So I just sort of type out 160RMB, not really sure what I’m doing (I had no idea how to price this thing). She makes the “oh what are you doing to me” face, but it was very clearly as a joke, and I’m just, yes, okay, I’m buying it, seriously, I want it and it’s 100RMB less now, wrap it up, let’s go.

So. She wraps the piece, and then, uh, begins a ritual. She starts chanting what I assume was a prayer, and moves the package over my head and my hands, then turns to a display with various god statutes and ‘offerings’ (apples, money), continuing to chant, holds the piece over different parts of the statues, bows, chants more, turns to another display with offerings for luck and health and wealth and chants to that and waves the item over that—the process probably took a good several minutes. I just. Mostly stood there awkwardly and looked interested. I have no idea if she did that every single time someone made a purchase, or she liked me, or, uh, maybe it was because I was buying what I’m fairly certain is a Hindu holy object.

When it was over, she turned back to me and handed me the piece, I bowed and thanked her and gave her the 160RMB. She smiled again (she really didn’t stop smiling between the time we came in and this point, except for the ritual) and handed back 10RMB, saying (Brittany told me later), “We’re both foreigners here, so we’re friends,” which was apparently something she’d said repeatedly while we were in the shop. According to Brittany, her accent was very different; probably she was either a minority or not Chinese at all, and, well, it’s a xenophobic culture. Maybe she just liked that a very obvious non-Chinese made a big purchase of something she thought was important. Not sure, but wonderful experience. I kind of want to go back and buy more things from her.

We headed back down the alley after that, ducking into the occasional shop, looking at various street vendor wares. I bought candy floss because I wanted some, and then we had the very interesting experience of watching the “THE POLICE ARE COMING” signal followed immediately by every single vendor throwing their wares together and scurrying away. They trickled back in about fifteen minutes later.

More street vendor food was then bought (something known as tanghulu pictures to come) and we returned to our hostel room to eat that, make a video of the experience, and relax our have-been-on-them-for-almost-six-hours feet. We went back out again at about 7-ish, intending to get a small, very unhealthy (but delicious and not sweet) dinner, but.

On the way over to the café, we passed this shop that we had stopped in the day before. Lots of awesome, handmade clay pieces; everything from phone charms to framed wall art. Both Brittany and I really liked the pieces and spent a while in deliberation, deciding to eventually come back later. We passed it that morning only to be disappointed in finding it closed, so that it was open at night was a nice surprise. We made a beeline inside and…again spent a long time just looking at everything and wanting everything and this stuff was so cool, it really was. Finally, after eons and picking things up and putting things back and repeat, repeat, repeat, I decide on three charms to get; one for me, and two for my mother and sister. Brittany, meanwhile, buys a charm as well as a hanging decoration.

I’m about to make my purchase, when I look back over at the larger pieces again. There was this one piece—a Chinese knot in yellow cord, with a clay dragon curled up below it. It was very cool, and just nice, a great looking piece and I looked at it and looked at it and looked at it and finally went, “okay, you do this every time but you are in China, you love it, it’s handmade, and just buy the thing you won’t have this chance again.” So. I bought it. And I’m very, very happy with it. It’s a beautiful little piece, transportable, and I like that I’m sort of by-accident building up a collection of interesting art from the places I’ve visited around the world. It’s even nicer since I’d been looking for a dragon something for myself, it being the Year of the Dragon New Year and all. Plus, the shop owner told me how it’s a good thing for wisdom and studying, which is great; I need all that I can get.

When Brittany saw me buy the dragon, she started having thoughts about a framed piece of wall art –also a clay dragon- that she wanted, and after much deliberation, mostly consisting of “yes, we can transport it, you love it, it’s handmade, how often will this opportunity come along,” she bought it too. I think we confused the shop owner, silly Westerners making multiple purchases. But he boxed up the dragon for her, and then told her to pick another charm off the wall, which was cool.

We went to eat feeling very accomplished and proud of ourselves, and on the way back from the café (it was pretty late; about 9pm), we noticed that another store was still open that Brittany had hoped would be. In we went, she bought another thing for a gift that she is also very pleased with, and then back to the hostel we went.

All around, very good day.
travelingadiva: (Default)
Saturday, January 21st, 2012 07:06 am
The end.

Okay, no. The coat was a pretty big highlight of the day though, aside from being in Beijing now, and all.

But let me begin at more of the beginning. Which means we travel several days back to Qufu.

Qufu was cold. Did I mention that already? Because it was. Which wouldn't have been so bad, except that the Shaolin school was so incredibly bare and minimal that they really didn't believe in heating. The entire building where we slept was essentially a cement block with wooden door frames that didn't seal well, no exaggeration. Each room sort of had a heater, but they only turned on twice a day; once in the morning and once at night for about an hour each time. There really wasn't such a thing as being properly warm at all. And we were just there a week.

As mentioned in the previous entry, every day we got up at 7am for breakfast. Training starting at 8:30am sharp, and that was either outside, or in the training hall. The training hall didn't have heat either, but it had slightly less dirt and windchill. Still, not really an ideal place to do things like stretch, even though we did warm up (slowly) from all the activity.

I didn't make another entry while inQufu because there really wasn't a whole lot to say. The days consisted of waking up, breakfast, training, short break, training, lunch, longer break, training, break, dinner at 5:30pm, and then curfew at 9:30. Most people spent the breaks sleeping, washing up, trying to relax, or sleeping. We did talk to a lot of people and got along with almost everyone (pretty much the entire school, with one or two exceptions, was great), but the training coupled with the cold really took a toll on everyone there, I think.

Not to mention that we got there just in time for a cold to be going around. My roommate Sarah got sick first, but I caught it for sure by Tuesday or Wednesday. Running in the cold was hard to begin with, but adding the breathing trouble and it was brutal. I've had a pretty bad hacking cough for the last three or four days, though finally, finally the congestion went away; now it's just the cough. Brittany thinks she's getting sick now, however. Bleh.

Being sick would have been okay, even with the weather (sort of), but on top of that I just wasn't sleeping. The beds at the school are, literally, straw pallets with plywood underneath. It's a little amazing, for all it is the most uncomfortable thing to sleep on anyway. Every thing in the school was hard. The beds are wood, the chairs are wood, the ground was frozen, and the floors are stone. The last two days there I was having such a hard time sleeping, along with not being bale to breathe from the cold, I seriously considered going to the training hall and grabbing a mat to lie down on; it was that bad.

However. That all being said, the training part was incredible. Because it was so close to the new year, there were only three Shifu (master) trainers there, so we didn't get as much attention, so to speak, but I can absolutely see why people go to this school, everything else regardless. Being able to immerse yourself in the training like this really does amazing, incredible things--it's everything I've ever wanted in martial arts training. People were had been there just a month or two were worlds beyond what I've ever been capable off, and the ones who had been there longer? Words can't describe. I think it's very much the mindset of always looking at those who are beyond you; if I had been there a month, I'd be wishing for the skills of those who had been there for three, three months to six, six months to a year, etc, etc. After just being there for a week, we learned:
+ Basics (the eleven moves that make up Shaolin Kung Fu),
+ Sanda basics (Chinese boxing; and after watching the sparring on Wednesday, I have decided to never learn more then that because there is no way I would want to have a Sanda spar ever ever ever; the chances for injury is just way too high),
+ a full Wingcheng form (a form of attacking and defending with just your hands),
+ Five-step form (one of the basic Shaolin Kung Fu forms),
+ half of a Wudang-style straight-sword form

That is a lot, in a week. And yes, we really, really need to improve and practice a lot on all of those things, but still. A week. Imagine a month or more.

Even with all the cons, I still want to go back, and I think that's saying something.

Though definitely in the spring.

Also, I really want a collapsible sword.

Other highlights of the Qufu experience:
The Wudang Shifu. He was a much older Shifu, and he came for afternoon classes to teach a whole bunch of different things. But someone handed us swords and said the sword forms were the easiest and fastest to learn, so that's what we got caught. He was an incredibly cheerful, very fast-talking man who happily demonstrated the thousands of different ways he could kill you while showing you what the moves were supposed to be for. The only problem was that he tended to do things like show you the entire form once, nod brightly, and then walk away.

Uh, yeah. I generally begged help off of other students once I got the 'okay' from the Shifu that I was allowed to move on. The 'okay' meant he'd show me the form in its entirety again. Before leaving. He didn't do that all the time; he did spend quite a while with us when we were first starting out.

The whistle. Okay, no that wasn't a highlight. Just. Every activity was signaled with a whistle. When we were supposed to get up, all meals, when classes started, when classes ended, everything. All the students are thus very attuned to the whistle. To the point that, on Thursday afternoon during the long break, Mintoy was taking a nap while Sarah and I were both reading. I coughed sort of higher than normal, and Mintoy sat straight up, mumbling "...was that the whistle? Has the whistle sounded? Am I late?" Sarah and I assured here she had plenty of time, she dropped back to sleep, and didn't remember a thing about it when we told her the later.

Getting out of Qufu. Let me explain. We had meant to buy tickets to Beijing, our next travel destination, upon arrival at Qufu, in order to get that out of the way. Except that didn't happen, so we had to buy tickets at a ticket station instead. Which was. Sort of an ordeal. Because in order to get to the ticker station, we needed to find it. That would have been fine, except that the only way to get there was by bus, we had never ridden the bus before, neither of us knew the town at all, and we had no idea what to look for.

In hindsight, we should have gotten better directions...maybe traded numbers with a couple of the people at school...eh.

Well, we got on the bus. Rode for quite a while. Brittany thought she saw the station, but wasn't sure, asked a guy in a rush who was getting off the bus who told us no. Oookay. We stay on bus. It gets to a place that says Tickets. We get off. It's the bus terminal. We get on another bus. It drives out to the middle of nowhere and stops. We get off and look bewildered enough that a Chinese woman asks, "do you want to go here?" We replied with an emphatic no, and after some confusion got across that we wanted to go to the Gong Fu school (the name in Chinese). Back on the bus (had to pay fare again) and decided that okay, we're just going to stay on the bus, get back to the school, and then either get better directions or go into town later with some of the other students who were planning on buying tickets then.

Ten minutes into the ride, Brittany spots that place she'd thought that the station before, yells that its the right place and leaps off the bus. I have no choice but to follow. And guess what? It was the ticket station. Should have trusted that instinct. But whatever, we're there now!

There's a crush of people against the barred gate separating the (two) ticket workers from the crowd. We sort of push in and then nothing. No one moves. We sort of just wait there for a good ten minutes until Brittany finally asks a woman what's going on. Turns out the people are all waiting until three o'clock, for their tickets to go on sale. We didn't need to wait, since are tickets were for the next day.

Except just as we're moving to get the attention of the workers, it turns 3pm. The crowd explodes. Pushing, yelling, shoving--I now understand how people get trampled to death. It was pretty bad. I acted as best I could as a human barricade, shoving Brittany toward the counter while trying to keep us both from being squashed. I got shoved, I shoved back.

Finally, she reaches the counter, starts the transaction. As she's doing that, the woman right next to her (young, maybe our age or a bit older?) has her tickets and is trying to get out and can't. So I just grabbed her arm, pushed the people behind me, and threw her toward the exit. I got thanked in Chinese as she was sailing past.

By the time I finish my heroic act of heroism, Brittany's done. She checked the tickets over to make sure they were right.
Me: Are they good?
Her: Yes. Move.

And so I turn around, bark, "WEI" really loud (basically "hey!"), and push forward. The crowd parts like the red sea, and we are out in about three seconds, no joke. And proceed to stumble toward the bus stop, drunk-giggling on adrenaline. Bus ride home with no trouble, and we were set to go to Beijing.

And now we're here!

The trip the Beijing doesn't have a lot to it. We spent the night before staying up late (till past 10pm!) with Sarah, watching Terry Fator and Aladdin, and then talking for a while longer before going to bed. Up at 7am the next day for breakfast, and then we left. Walked to the bus stop with our luggage, took the bus to the Youth Hostel in town, from there grabbed a taxi with no fuss (thank goodness), to the station, waited for an hour because we'd gotten there early, on train for four hours, and then Beijing! It was a bit more than a mile to the hostel, which was fun dealing with the cold and the luggage (I really, really despise my big suitcase), but we found it with little trouble (again, thank goodness).

After checking in, we dropped out luggage and froze to death a little while waiting for the heater to work (everything is made of stone, or wood, and no insulation it is COLD), took showers, and then went back out again for dinner and a bank. Found the bank first (and took the opportunity to thaw out frozen feet), and luckily found a noodle place soon after, which really ended up being a good meal. Afterwards we ducked into a Bakery for a sweet snack and ended up with a very odd green-tea bread (...not my favorite) and peanut-paste-filled bread (not bad) and some warm drinks.

Warmer, fuller, and much more comfortable, we then spent a bit of time looking into the stores we passed that sold coats. And in the second store, we found one! It's dark blue, and fits, and is fairly warm, and has more pockets than my broken one, and the pockets zip which is an added security load-off-my-mind, and it cost 99RMB. Meaning about $16. From a shop that gave me a receipt and everything. Definitely a good buy, in my mind. No more broken zipper and worrying about pockets = happy me!

And now we're back in the hostel, planning for tomorrow, which is going to be a busy day. I'm looking forward to it a lot more, now that I have a working coat.